Naminori – Wave riding

The sky is an infinite grey, rain plodding down into the gentle surf of the pacific ocean. And here I am less than 60 kilometers north of the Daiichi Nuclear Power Station, contemplating becoming a thing which is thrown by the ocean.  Three years ago, I would never have expected this. Yesterday morning, I never would have expected this, but life has a lovely way of unfolding. Not more than a few hundred meters from me, there is still evidence of damage to infrastructure from the Tsunami and Quake.

Last Saturday, I had a dream that I was on the Oceanside, when off in the distance a great storm reared up. Cumulonimbus clouds, like panthers padding across the sky. Some people were running to the ocean, but I chose to run towards shore, except now I was on a sandbar between two bodies of water, and as I crossed large waves were rising. I get across somehow, but I was being presented with pictures of the shoes that were on children’s feet who drowned attempting to cross that very body of water.

With that image in mind, I am suited up in a red wet suit clinging to a surf board, and I don’t feel a bit of the rain. That is, I don’t mind, it’s one in the same with the waves, one in the same with me. Except for the fact that I am small and though I am mostly made of water, my consciousness tends only to truly occupy the hydrophobic skin sack I call body. I have never surfed before, and I haven’t been in the ocean in years. To put it in Aikido words, I am Uke -the reciever- (受け) and the ocean is Nage -the thrower- (投げ). How I loved what spirit and energy my partners would place into their throws, and the fluidity in which I could fall, roll out and stand up and have another go. I contemplate the idea that one might never be Nage because though we might seem centered the forces that come at us are always incredibly powerful and we must learn the best way to be thrown by them.

After I’ve gulped down torrents of seawater and faced a number of waves, My friend turns my board around and pushes me into a wave. As the wave throws my board, I stand up and ride the white water back towards shore.


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